After 11 hours on an overnight and very uncomfortable ferry from Italy, we were thrilled to finally see land ahead. Albania was our first stop on our two month journey through the Balkans, and what an incredible beginning to our adventure! If I’m being completely transparent, I had very low expectations for Albania. After all, Tirana used to be at the top of Europe’s worst cities to visit list. I definitely imagined the Balkans to be a grittier and less advanced version of Western Europe, as a result my expectations were completely blown out of the water.
An important piece of history to keep in mind is that Albania was under a strict and isolative dictator, Enver Hoxha for almost 60 years. His recent death marked the end of his oppressive regime, and slowly Albania has been moving towards a new economy. The country is currently undergoing a massive renovation with improving infrastructure, and giving communist buildings a major facelift. As a result, Tirana is a charming metropolis with a small town feeling. It’s an interesting juxtaposition of new and old Albania, with shiny new buildings overlooking abandoned structures and youths with BMW’s crowding lively nightclubs on the same corner as elderly street merchants selling popcorn.
After disembarking the ferry at Durres port, we made our way through passport control quickly, and hopped on a bus to Tirana, the capital of Albania. We were shocked, with the bus costing us mere cents for a 40 minute drive. Albania is one of the most affordable countries in the Balkans by regional standards! Our stay in a spacious Airbnb, just around the corner from Skanderbeg Square, was only $20 USD per night. A big dinner usually costs only $5 USD per person, and a .5L beer is less than a dollar! You can’t get much better than that, especially coming from Italy’s Amalfi Coast where you’re basically throwing money out the window just by breathing.
When we visited Albania at the beginning of August, it was HOT. Temperatures usually reached 100 degrees fahrenheit, which made exploring during the day very sweaty. However, Tirana is home to plenty of fun activities that don’t require being outdoors. BUNK’ART is a massive Cold War bunker transformed into a history and contemporary art museum, one of the best in the city. This bunker was built as protection for the political elite in the 1970s and remained a secret from citizens for decades. We enjoyed roaming the long, dark hallways within the bunker where a very detailed account of Albanian history can be found. Art installations were intertwined with the historical exhibits to illustrate the tragic times during the war. Bunk’Art is located right next to the Dajti Express, so buying a package deal for both tickets saved us money! We had a ton of fun taking the 15-minute cable car ride from Tirana to Mount Dajti, where we got an an absolutely breathtaking panoramic view of the city. The hotel at the top is home to a rooftop patio, and a 360 degree rotating bar, which allows you views of every direction of Albania, all sitting in your chair and sipping a drink. Although, keep in mind, the drinks at the bar are substantially more expensive than normal. We spent sunset sipping some cocktails and enjoying the pastel ombré tones of the sun sinking beneath the horizon.
Skanderbeg Square is the newly renovated main plaza in the city center, and it’s a great place to visit. The foundation of the square is made from stone from all over Albania and there are trees planted for shade, ultimately creating a wide-open space where locals sit and chat, and children run around and play in the fountains . The centerpiece of the square is a massive black statue of Gjergj Skanderbeg, an Albanian national hero. The National Historic Museum is also found in this square and is a treasure trove for those interested in the history of the Balkans. Tirana is home to a huge concrete pyramid known as Piramida, which used to be home to the museum, Hoxha, but now sits abandoned and covered in graffiti. It’s a strange remembrance piece, and should be visited since it’s a short walk from Skanderbeg Square.
If there’s one word that makes me think of the Balkans – it’s kebabs. You can’t go more than a block without seeing multiple street food stands selling kebabs, and let me tell you… Albania knows how to do their kebabs. They traditionally serve kebabs as small sausages mixed with spices, along with onions, yogurt sauce, and a fluffy piece of bread. It’s a simple meal, but it’s the simplicity that makes the flavors all explode in your mouth. We could have eaten kebabs and only kebabs our entire time there (and we almost did), but Tirana has many other pleasant restaurants and cafes to explore!
Oda is known as one of the best traditional restaurants for authentic Albanian food. It’s very cheap, even by Albanian standards, and serves delicious dishes such as peppers stuffed with rice, and vegetable pies, which are similar to a quiche. They have some more adventurous dishes such as lamb innards, which has a distinct taste, but it’s still delicious! Gourmet is another delicious restaurant that serves up gourmet (surprise, surprise!) food at a very reasonable price for the quality of food. When we were looking for a cafe to enjoy a refreshing drink and get some work done E7E was perfect! This cafe has a very spacious, shaded patio area with giant fans cooling the area down, along with a great selection of food and drinks. Their strong wifi connection makes getting any work done a breeze, and their small library inside makes for a fun way to pass the time. Another option is Sky Club, a glitzy rotating bar high above the city with great panoramic views. It’s expensive, but fun for a special evening out. A stroll through the huge park is a perfect way to spend an evening, and there are a number of stands selling gelato, popcorn, or corn on the cob.
I remember being surprised by the sheer amount of people that spoke English, we rarely struggled to communicate. Many locals told us that English is rapidly becoming the second language of Albania, which made our travels much easier. Everyone was very friendly towards us as foreigners, and whenever we asked for directions, we would end up with three people helping us. Americans are very rare in the Balkans, so the locals seemed to be very surprised, but excited to meet us. They also recommended Berat and Sarande as great cities to visit in Albania, so next time we’ll be sure to explore more!
Albania, especially Tirana, is a great starting point for an adventure, the only tough part is choosing which direction to go next! If you head north, you can visit the gorgeous coastal cities of Montenegro. Going west means taking a ferry across the Adriatic to Italy, land of amazing food and history. South of Albania is the picturesque Greece, with beautiful blue water and ancient architecture. We chose to go east and explore the underrated beauty of Macedonia, home to the oldest and deepest lake in Europe!
The adventure continues!
Lexi
